Thursday, October 14, 2010
Sunday, October 3, 2010
Journey's end
Terminal 3 redeemed itself on the way out. It provides everything a traveller needs while waiting three hours to get on a plane and come home.
The Montmartre area of Paris is a terrific place to stay, especially if you want to have more than merely a tourist experience. We loved the neighbourhood, and spent hours walking around getting lost, buying our breakfast every day from a different boulangerie, buying a different wine every day from a different wine shop, and having random meals in the local cafes. It was quite a contrast, because our apartment building was 20 feet from the Montmartre Cemetary, which is as quiet as a ghost, as you can imagine, and a few hundred feet from Rue de Clichy, which is a hive of activity, especially at night. There is the matter of the sex corridor on Rue de Clichy, but that did not bother us at all.
I have always heard that Parisians are rude and arrogant, but that was not our experience. We only encountered a few goofs, and every place on earth has its share of goofs. I found the people to be friendly and helpful and easy to approach. I will be going back to Paris sometime because there is a lot left to see and experience. Paris was really the sidebar to this trip, and I am really happy the way it turned out.
I will also return to La Salette. I now know how easy it is to get there, and with Alexandre as a guide I have no qualms at all. I cannot express adequately my gratitude to Shirl for sharing this bittersweet experience with me. The drive through the Alps from Grenoble to La Salette and then to Notre Dame de la Salette will remain in our memories forever. Shirl was taking digital photos, while I was taking SLR film photos that have to be developed. I am hoping that my pictures of Mont Obiou, which I call the scene of the crime, come out well. I will post one if they do.
Au revoir.
Thursday, September 30, 2010
Shopping day
Tour day
We spent a bit of time in the Musee D'Orsay, which has a lot of Van Goghs, but is under renovation so the exhibits are very limited. There was a lovely sculpture of the young Aristotle ... what a cutie.
Wednesday, September 29, 2010
La Salette
Yesterday went off without a hitch. We arrived at Gare de Lyon in plenty of time and the trip to Grenoble was uneventful. We were both extremely tired, mostly because we were worried about the alarm going off and the wake-up call being successful. The alarm was Shirley's BlackBerry, which for some reason would not change to local time. So, we set the alarm for 10:30 at night, which was 4:30 a.m. local time. And, I set up the wake-up call, but because the automated service commented in French, I was not sure if it worked or not. Anyway, neither of us got any sleep because we did not want to miss the train.
When we arrived at Grenoble, our taxi driver, Alexandre, was there waiting for us. He was a Godsend. If not for him, we would still be roaming around the Alps looking for La Salette. It is always more complicated than Google maps implies. Alexandre knows the area, although he had never been past the small town of Corps, the closest town to La Salette Fallavaux. He hunted down the last bouquet of roses in the town for me to take to the cemetary. Another bonus about Alexandre is that he took English for seven years and was eager to practice. Being that we were running on no sleep, this meant the world to us.
After Corps, the road became really rustic, a series of switchbacks, not all with guardrails, and we were at about 1,ooo metres at this point. La Salette is higher, and the Sanctuary of Notre Dame de la Salette is higher still. But the cemetary was exactly where I was hoping it would be. We came around a corner and there was the Canadian flag flying. There was a couple there from Quebec, visiting the lady's father who had died in the crash.
There was a visitor's book, and I left some information about my father that was missing from his grave. I would like to have this information added to his gravestone, and so we continued up to the Sanctuary, where I was hoping to find out who maintains the cemetary. We found out that the cemetary is the property of Canada and Quebec, and that all relevant decisions are made by the archbishop of Quebec. So that is my next project. In July 2009 a group of people went up to the crash site, brought down the wreckage, and made the sculpture which is now in the entrance to the cemetary. I placed three roses on my father's grave, one for my mother, one for my brother, and one for me.
The road from La Salette Fallavaux to the Sanctuary is even crazier that the road from Corps to La Salette. Add to this the fact that it was a cloudy day and after a certain height we were driving in the clouds. Shirley was a little concerned and asked Alexandre, because he had never been this way before, "are you afraid"? He said "absolutely not". That made her feel much better. I have been on much crazier roads in Central America, so this was nothing for me.
We made it to the Sanctuary in one piece and it was shrouded in clouds. It was a bit surreal, because here is this terribly religious place that served beer, wine, and liquor. We stayed only long enough to find out about the archbishop and headed back to Grenoble. We had to hang around there for a few hours until our train left for Paris. We got back around 10:30 and were home by 11. A long and very emotional day.
If anyone reading this blog ever gets to Grenoble and needs a guide and/or driver, you cannot go wrong with Alexandre. Here is his contact info: alexandre.marillet@taxis-grenoblois.fr. Tell him Maggie sent you.
Shirley made a couple of movies of our trip yesterday, that we have been trying to post all night. No luck ... will try again tomorrow.
Monday, September 27, 2010
Weird day
We did manage to go through Notre Dame Cathedral, though. I think you need a lot of time to do it justice and today was not the day for us. Other than that we did a bus tour, which we will do again on Wednesday, but on Wednesday we will stop at a couple of places, like the Louvre and Musee D'Orsay.
Sunday, September 26, 2010
A day in Montmartre
I wanted to find La Virgule and Shirl wanted to find Le Refuge des Fondues, a restaurant she had read about online. We found both eventually, totally by accident. Montmartre is a warren of tiny streets going every which way, and packed with sourvenir shops, cafes, restaurants, and art galleries. A lot of business are closed on Sundays, which is quaint for people like us who are accustomed to the 24/7 lifestyle.
We walked up to Sacre Coeur and I am not sure how to relate to it. Is it a circus or a church? It looks like a church, but it acts like a circus. There is acually a carousel at the bottom. Not only that, there are people hawking purses and cheap Paris souvenirs all the way up the stairs and on every landing on the way up to the basilica.
There was a mass being conducted while we were there, so we hung out inside the basilica for a while, until a nun crossed our path. They still wear habits, like in the old days, and I have to tell you she creeped me out. We had to leave, because I was flashing back to my old school days when I was surrounded by nuns, and Shirl was laughing at me.
After Sacre Coeur we wandered around Montmartre and that is when we found La Virgule. We stopped there for an excellent lunch (Shirl had a crepe and I had quiche Lorraine). This lovely couple offered to take our picture. To top it off, La Virgule has a bulldog named Maggie. Made my day.
After lunch we continued strolling and we came upon some really cute purses. Now, Shirl intended all along to find a purse in Paris, so this was according to plan. I, however, had not intented to do any purse shopping so imagine my surprise when I found myself buying not one, not two, but three purses. The prices are fantastic here. And Shirl is no slouch in the purse department. The thing with her is that she changes her mind occasionally, which results in changing one purse for another after the fact. There is nothing wrong with this, but I can tell you that now if we come within 50 feet of a store that sells purses, I yell "STEP AWAY FROM THE PURSES" to keep both of us in line.
Wandered home around five o'clock, stopping on the way for a glass of wine, and dessert and coffee. We are going to try the hop on/hop off Paris tour tomorrow.
By the way, if you thought I was kidding about the Shirley scarf situation, here is proof. And she found one more after the picture was taken.
No string for us
McDonald's
Our place
We managed to stay awake until 7 o'clock. I woke up about 1 a.m. (Shirl woke up about 11 p.m.) and hung out on the patio looking at Sacre Coeur all lit up. Went back to sleep and woke up around 8 a.m.
Jetlagged walkabout in Montmartre
Terminal 3
Air Transat cattle cartage
Thursday, September 23, 2010
Our Paris 'hood

http://www.holidaycity.com/montmartre-paris/index.htm
One sleep.
I read in the Globe today that there are random strikes happening in France at the moment, and that Paris transit is being affected. Apparently the French are malheureux that the government is going to raise the retirement age from 60 to 62. Cry me a river. I am hoping that they concentrate on the city transit and not the high-speed trains that will take us to Grenoble and back on Tuesday.
Tuesday, September 21, 2010
Alternate route
I even found this cafe that I was looking for, called La Virgule, which means comma in French. The comma is one of the most discussed items among editors, so I think it will be hilarious to have someone take our picture there so I can send it to all the editors I know. Correction: only to the editors I like ... a smaller list. We should probably be careful about whom we recruit to take the picture. If it is a stringie, he or she might take the camera.
Go google!
Monday, September 20, 2010
Sacre Coeur String people
My goddaughter and her friend were accosted by these people in the Spring and ended up giving them 10 or so Euros, and also ended up not pleased with themselves for caving in. They should not be too hard on themselves. According to what I have read these people are quite intimidating.
Shirley and I are armed with knowledge of this little enterprise and that will contribute to a different outcome. I can explain to the string people in Quebec French, bad Spanish, and English that we are "stringophobes" and as such must decline their offerings. If all this fails, I will just show them the "Maggie face". This has frightened people in the past. We'll see.
Four sleeps.
Friday, September 17, 2010
Countdown to Paris
Tuesday, August 24, 2010
The Annual
They have this pond in the back yard (not like any back yard you've ever seen, and it is constantly expanding). The picture above shows only a fraction of the whole. Anyway, a lot of frogs and goldfish live in this pond, and one of the first things I do upon arrival is check in with the frogs and see how they are doing. Usually they are suspended in the water, with just their heads poking through and it takes a while to distinguish them from the lily pads. This year, this big fella was sitting on one of the rocks and just grooving. Seems to be smiling, doesn't he? I would smile too if I had his living arrangements.
For the last three years in a row we have gone to a pottery festival called "1001 Pots" (same in French and English) in Val David. It is held outside and runs for a month. Everyone should go there if they are in the area during the time it is on. See their website if you are interested. This year I got off easy, spending less than $100.00. The stuff is unique, and the atmosphere is serene.
We had dinner at "L'ange cornu", which is a charming restaurant in L'Assomption. The food is terrific, the decor is whimsical, the staff are amazing, and it also puts on theatre shows in conjunction with the arts centre next door. It is surprising to come across such an artistic vibe in a little town in the middle of farm country.
It was over too quickly, and I hit the road with my soul in good shape and some fresh veggies from one of Julia's many gardens.
A la prochaine.
Saturday, August 7, 2010
Elvis @ Collingwood
For me, the real value for that day was the road trip, through areas of Ontario I had never seen, to a place I had never been. Collingwood is a pretty town. It reminded me of Niagara-on-the-Lake.
Monday, July 12, 2010
The road not taken - postscript
Now that I am re-scheduling the volcano-ized trip for September, I decided to let the Antin Trinite Hotel in Paris know why Shirley and I would not be staying with them. I emailed them, telling them that because they had penalized me in April, we would not be staying with them for our extended trip in September. I think that it is good to know the consequences of our decisions and actions, and I thought that this would bookend the first attempt nicely.
Well, imagine my chagrin when the hotel immediately wrote back, and provided proof that they had not penalized me at all. Apparently, someone on this end decided to score some insurance money. I am not amused. I am taking this up with my travel agent.
In the meantime, apologies to the Hotel Antin Trinite in Paris. Hey world, stay there if you can.
Thursday, July 8, 2010
Ottawa
I finally decided to drive up on the day of the event, stay overnight at a B&B, try to catch up with my friend Marg the next day, and then return to Toronto.
I highly recommend the New Edinburgh Bed and Breakfast in the New Edinburgh district of Ottawa, which is a stone's throw from the GG's residence, walking distance to the Rockliffe Park area, and a 20-minute walk to the Byward Market. The owners are amazing, friendly, and helpful people. Noreen actually drove me to my event. There was a family from New Zealand staying there at the same time, and I enjoyed hearing about their travels the next morning at breakfast, which, by the way, was superb. This is an old, beautiful house and I stayed in the Queen room, which has its own bathroom ensuite. I will definitely stay there whenever I go to Ottawa.
The event was fine. The next day I walked to Byward Market along Sussex Drive, hung out there for a while, and walked back a different way. I stopped in to see Marg for a cup of tea, and to catch up, and then hit the road back to Toronto around 1:30.
I decided to come back by Highway 7 instead of the 401. It was fine until I left the 115, when it got a bit squirrelly until I got to the 407. It took longer that I had anticipated. I think it would be faster to take 7A off of 115 and go through Port Perry and Uxbridge, ending up just south of Newmarket, and then head south to Toronto. Might be more mileage but it is more straightforward. I will test out the theory next time.
Vancouver
I spent four days in Vancouver in early June, just hanging out with my brother and wandering around the city (well, wandering around the Granville Market). I managed to spend a few minutes with Emlene on the day I arrived and then she was off for a one-week holiday with her sister in the U.S.
I saw a little bit of "the boy" (nephew Roddy), but people his age seem to really come alive after we, the older folks, are thinking about going to bed. However, I did get to hear him practising on the piano, playing and singing his own material. The boy is good. He plays base in two bands, but I love to listen to his own creations.
My friend Pam was at a job fair at UBC the same week, so she stayed with us for the Saturday night and left at some godforsaken time on Sunday morning. I dragged her down to Granville Market and back (on foot). We had to stop for a beer on the way home.
Go, Westjet!!!
Tuesday, May 11, 2010
Thank you, Iceland volcano
She has a lot on the go this summer, but when my trip went up in smoke I let her know that if she could see her way to coming with me I would really appreciate it. Today she told me that we're on.
This changes everything. It will be now a blast, because we have the same way of looking at the world. For instance, we do not do line-ups (when we went to Expo 86 in Vancouver we saw all the obscure pavillions because the big ones had line-ups. Schedules are merely guidelines, and subject to change without notice. Most importantly, things that are troublesome and scary when you are alone are merely inconvenient or quite funny when you are with a friend.
So, thank you volcano and thank you Shirl.
Monday, May 10, 2010
Lessons learned
First, in the immortal words of Robbie Burns in To a mouse: "The best laid schemes o' mice an' men gang aft agley", which is why I try to minimize timetables to the extent possible.
Second, the trip was overly complicated because I despise Air Canada. If I had used Air Canada I could have eliminated one leg of the trip and a plane change. I chose BA because I could fly direct from London to Toronto going home, but going to Europe on BA involves changing planes in London. Hence the London to Lyon. It was the same for Air France, but in reverse. I can fly direct from Toronto to Paris, but coming home from London involves changing planes in Paris. We all know that adding a change of planes to a trip often results in luggage going in a different direction from its traveller.
Air Canada, on the other hand, has direct flights to and from both London and Paris. So, when I re-do the trip, I will either hold my nose and fly Air Canada or do one-way trips on other airlines, whichever makes more financial sense.
Third, almost half of the trip would have been spent getting from one place to another. If this was a road trip I would have a totally different take on that. For me, a road trip is about the journey rather than the destination. On this type of trip, however, the destination is the important thing, and the less time I spend getting there the better I like it.
So, here is what I am going to change for the September attempt:
- Eliminate the London portion. Do that next year.
- Use Air Canada or Air France, whichever is a better deal.
- Spend four or five days in Paris rather than two and a half.
- Shorten trip to eight days.
Friday, May 7, 2010
Once again from the top
So, September it is ... gives me time to rethink the itinerary and do the hotel search again.
Not that I will be staying put until then. I have my annual pilgrimage to Montreal sometime in July or August (I usually go on the first weekend of my friend Julia's vacation). No word yet on when that will be.
I will also be going to Vancouver in June to visit my brother. I had better get going on that one ... June is just around the corner.
Thursday, April 22, 2010
Final comment on postponed trip
Addendum to the road not taken
Tuesday, April 20, 2010
The road not taken
It appears that hotels in Europe are gouging stranded travellers by jacking up the prices of hotel rooms daily. This opportunism might seem like a profitable idea at the moment, but it is ultimately a bad business decision.
For instance, the hotel I had booked in London has charged me a ten percent penalty for cancelling (postponing, really) even though they have a week's notice and are not going to be out of pocket. However, since I am going to make this journey eventually, they are going to lose the ninety percent that I will give to some other hotel in this instance, and all the other hotel room dollars that I will not give to them or their affiliates until the end of time (well, my time anyway). I cannot even estimate the actual amount of their future lost revenue, but it will be a boatload more that the ten percent they are gaining from this decision. Ditto for the hotel in Paris, which is penalizing me the amount of one night's stay. I am actually not losing anything, because I am fully covered by insurance.
Furthermore, if I can convince even one more person to steer away from these two establishments, The Hotel Antin Trinite in the 9th district of Paris, and the Days Inn, Westminster on Belgravia Street in London SW1, then the losses increase. And they tell two friends, and they tell two friends, and so on, and so on ....
I am aware that this post is arguably an instance of me not taking the high road.
Sunday, April 18, 2010
Still on the ground
Peace, out.
Still up in the air
I realize that there are a lot of tomorrows in that paragraph.
Thursday, April 15, 2010
The big smoke
They say that Heathrow [where I change planes for Lyon (where I catch a fast train to Grenoble)] could be shut down for another 48 hours. That is cutting it awfully close to my time of departure. According to my travel agent, my flight is still on schedule.
If my flight out of Toronto is cancelled the whole trip, as it is currently mapped out, breaks down. It would mean re-sheduling the whole thing again. No worries. We ladies with free time can roll with these little glitches.
Sunday, March 28, 2010
Trip one, phase one - La Salette Fallavaux




